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Puerto Madero - Recoleta
Known as ´the Paris of Argentina´ for its French style architecture, Recoleta became populated in the 1870s when the upper classes moved away from the centre because of cholera and yellow fever epidemics. Now, it is renowned for its culture and museums, and is definitely more of a seeing (and being seen) than a doing place. If you go on a Sunday when the craft fayre is on in Plaza Francia opposite the cemetery you´ll be mostly among fellow tourists. It´s okay but a bit crowded and much more relaxing to lie on the grass where you can semi-watch average jugglers and clown-type artistes do their thing. If you´re an art-lover then you don´t need us to tell you not to miss the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which houses some properly famous paintings and sculptures by the likes of Monet and Rembrandt. If you know nothing about art, and couldn´t care less, drop in for 10 minutes anyway, it´s free - just to have a gawp at Rodin´s The Kiss sculpture. Touch it though and you´ll get a telling off over the loudspeaker. The museum is open in the afternoon during the week and all day at weekends. Recoleta´s newer museum, the Malba, hosts a huge collection of works from Latin American artists and is a much more modern affair, both in its exhibits and the architecture of the building. It´s a bit annoying that it´s about 12 blocks out of Recoleta, almost in Palermo, but makes up for that it´s free on Wednesdays, and open all day, every day. Recoleta even has outside art in the form of a giant rose sculpture, which sits outside the law faculty. Its petals open with sunrise and close with sunset, but you´ll be less impressed when you realise it´s driven by hydraulics, not solar-powered, as is the common misconception. Eating out in Recoleta can be pricey - there are no choripans here. Walk past the parrillas in Junín and you´ll be hassled by the hosts at every door, vying for your custom, which will only make you more determined not to want to go in. Plus wherever you are you´ll be hassled by pretty persistent kids trying to sell you roses, so if you get an outside table put your tip in the waiter´s hands or it´ll be swiped within seconds. If you´re caught in the rain run to The Village, Recoleta´s modern complex which houses a huge but expensive cinema. Puerto Madero covers the area of the redeveloped port, which was named after Eduardo Madero, who came up with the then modern design. Unfortunately for him, big boats suddenly came into fashion and the port was abandoned just 10 years after its completion in 1897. The area fell into disrepair until about 15 years ago, since which some of the city´s most luxurious restaurants, offices and apartments have sprung up. The whole waterside area is nothing less than sparkling new and clean, and it´s still on the up, with plans for a huge cinema complex and park due to open in February. If you´re exploring during the day cross the river to the boulevard Costanera Sur, although to be honest it´s a bit of a concrete walk. Don´t be put off by the casual appearance of the hotdog stalls though - make a beeline for the bright yellow one and order a churrasco (thinly cut steak sandwich) and help yourself to some chimichurri sauce topped with a ´shower´ of crisps - it´s divine! Whizz round on a bike around the ecological reserve, which is more scrubby vegetation than lushious lawns, but if you stop for a breather don´t be tempted to go for a dip the river water is strictly unsafe. Go out at night in Puerto Madero in baggy jeans and you´ll get disapproving glares from the sophisticats in the windows of posh restaurants. You can find cheaper options though, such as the hot-favourite eat-all-you can - Siga La Vaca. Even this can set you back 40 pesos (including a bottle of wine each and dessert) depending on the time of day, so either starve yourself for 24 hours beforehand or go at lunchtime during the week and pay less. If you´re up for a boogie head for the building that looks like the poor cousin of Sydney Opera House, one of Buenos Aires´ most popular nightclubs, Opera Bay. Wednesday nights is the after-office party when the suited and booted get tanked up straight from work. Yes, it´s carnage, so expect to spend your night fighting. The Guru Team |
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